Wild, sweeping highlands, dramatic castles and mysterious lochs – The notion of Scotland fired the Victorian imagination and led to a vogue throughout Britain for all things Scottish. Queen Victoria herself had a passion for Scotland and was intensely proud of her Scottish heritage. Highly influential in matters of taste and decorum, her enchantment with the Highlands, which resulted in her buying Balmoral Castle in 1848, created a high demand for Scottish Agate jewelry.
Now highly sought after, agate jewelry, sometimes known as 'pebble' jewelry, is typically made with agate, granite and other local stones set in engraved silver. Agate, a banded and variegated form of chalcedony, has been used in jewelry since Roman times and is usually cut en cabochon. The rich colors of the different forms of agate mirrored the hues of Scottish landscape and the earthy tones of tartan. Inspiration initially came from traditional Celtic jewelry such as the Dirk or Dagger pin or the hinged circular pin known as the penannular. Scottish motifs including thistles, knots and harps also proved to be popular shapes and were later joined by typical Victorian design elements such as the Buckle, butterfly and bow.
The appeal of Scottish agate jewelry has lasted partially because of its bold designs and strong colors but also because it can sit quite happily with many modern outfits. This means some examples can be worth several thousand pounds, although other pieces have remained within the reach of those on a smaller budget. Early examples are generally more sought after and valuable, particularly pieces that date back to the end of the 18th century.
Later pieces – often produced in England or Germany in response to growing demand – suffered from lower standards of workmanship. Although later pieces tend to attract less money than earlier examples, they remain desirable and can fetch hundreds of pounds. A signature will also add value. Most of the jewelry is unmarked, but makers such as Sangster of Aberdeen and J. P. Hutton marked their wares.
When buying Scottish agate jewelry, it is important to check for chips and repairs and look for any replaced stones. Examine the piece for modification such as new or additional fastenings, as these could affect value. Choose something visually appealing –another major factor affecting value is the attractiveness of the design.
